Delicate UK Patek Philippe Nautilus 40th Anniversary 5711/1P Platinum Replica Watches Hands-On

The Patek Philippe 5711 Nautilus in steel is one of the hottest luxury sports watches around. It is hard to get and typically goes for over retail price unless you want to spend several years (depending on where you are in the world) on a waiting list. Part of this is because Patek Philippe claims that only about 20% of their total watch production overall is in steel, and among the steel models the 5711 Nautilus is just one of those which Patek Philippe produces. It also happens to dole them out in small, balanced amounts to keep the market from being saturated. The watch pictured here, however, is not a steel Nautilus but rather the all-platinum reference 5711/1P that was produced as a limited edition at the end of 2016 for the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus watch collection overall.

While the steel Nautilus has a retail price around $25,000, this 5711/1P costs more than four times that price. In addition to it being a limited edition (which of course ups the desirability level a bit), the case and bracelet are in full 950 platinum, and the watch also features diamonds. Using baguette-cut diamonds as the hour markers is a technique I think is both classy and masculine for when you clearly want to convey wealth, but also remain a bit more under-the-radar. As I said, if you saw this watch on someone’s wrist at a glance, given the look of the metal and the blue dial, it would easily be confused for the normal steel model.
I want to address something very important that marred the launch of the limited-edition 5711/1P steel case Patek Philippe Nautilus replica wacthes. Images that Patek Philippe shared of the watch made it look as though the “40 1976-2016” text on the dial was large and obtrusive. In fact, it looks downright ugly in those images. In reality, however, this text is very subtle and much more difficult to see in most lighting conditions.

For the most part, while wearing the Patek Philippe Nautilus Platinum 40th Anniversary watch, you can’t really see the 40th-anniversary text. This was really important to mention since I think a lot of people felt that this was a really big design mistake – as it appeared in Patek Philippe’s own marketing images. The lesson – once again – is that we should always hold final reservations about a watch until after we get to see it in person. (The watch hands cover some of the text in our images – apologies for this, but you get the idea.)

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1P is also larger than most Nautilus watches at 44.05mm wide. It doesn’t wear too large given that a good amount of that size is thanks to large side flanks – which are a hallmark of the original Gerald Genta design. The tapering platinum bracelet is both thin against the wrist and very comfortable. With this size and overall lovely aesthetic, this is probably my favorite Nautilus that I’ve ever worn – but of course, you need to stomach the price of platinum. Water resistance remains unchanged from other Nautilus models at 120 meters.

The addition of baguette diamonds as hour markers seems appropriate for this type of watch. Purists will claim that they needlessly add bling and take away from the mostly simple dial that Genta intended for the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Perhaps that is true on the steel models, but for this limited edition $100,000-plus platinum model, you might as well add diamond hour markers into the mix. It just makes the wearer feel better overall with the emotional delivery the watch appears to be aiming for. One more diamond is placed on the lower part of the case side under 6 o’clock facing the user.

Inside the blue dial 5711 Patek Philippe Nautilus copy watches is the attractive, in-house-made caliber 324 S C automatic movement. With a lot of Patek’s in-house technology, it’s a very capable and reliable daily wear. The movement is comprised of 213 parts, operating at 4Hz (28,800bph) with Patek’s Spiromax balance wheel and about 40 hours of power reserve. It also happens to be a rather svelte movement at just 3.3mm thick. Functions include the time with seconds and, of course, the date.

With its larger size, limited-edition exclusivity, and very straightforward sense of precious-material luxury, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1P is a winner in my book – though it is clearly not designed for the masses. You can see that an owner of the watch (who so nicely let me once again take a Patek Philippe off his wrist to ogle at – a regular ritual of ours) has been wearing and enjoying this platinum Nautilus, wear and tear included. That is a good thing, because I really dislike the idea of people buying watches and just storing them away, which is particularly common with rare Patek Philippe models. These are items meant to be worn and appreciated on the wrist.

Patek Philippe built 700 pieces of the limited-edition platinum fake watches 40th Anniversary Nautilus 5711/1P. At the same time, they also released a limited-edition Nautilus Chronograph 5976/1G, but in my opinion, the real winner is the (more expensive) 5711/1P.

Unique And Special Design Of UK Patek Philippe Advanced Research Limited Edition Fake Watches

The Advanced Research Travel Time is an obvious departure from previous Advanced Research watches. It is, first of all, the first Advanced Research watch to not be an annual or perpetual calendar; it is the first not in a round case; and moreover it’s pretty resolutely non-traditional in styling. In addition, it’s the first Advanced Research watch to present an innovation in a material other than silicon. the Arabic numerals Patek Philippe Advanced Research Limited Edition replica watches are the best watches for men to wear.

The Ref. 5650G Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research

The first, and most obvious, innovation is the “compliant (flexible) mechanism in steel.” This is the mechanism for adjusting the GMT indication forwards and backwards.

You can see the “compliant mechanism” on the left, and it’s a pretty piece of work. It’s all in steel; there are no exotic materials used, and while Patek says it required considerable computer time, as well as high tech manufacturing methods (the press release isn’t specific but electric spark erosion is a reasonable candidate) it’s still, strictly speaking, traditional watchmaking with traditional materials. It is fun to think, given its appearance, that it might have been nicknamed “the Crab” at Patek.

The level of precision required probably could not be achieved with classical methods – the clearance between the leaf springs, where they form an “x,” is only 150 microns – but the whole thing is hand-finished (which must have been, given the configuration of the mechanism, and to put it colloquially, a royal pain in the ass for whomever had to do it) and it looks very cool as well. It has a kind of intuitive appeal; almost no one could imagine such a thing but the basic principle, and construction, seem obvious and self-evident when you see it working. The easiest way to understand how it works is to watch this little short from Patek Philippe.

The Crab (if I may coin a nickname) has a lot of advantages over the usual GMT switching mechanism used by Patek – lower parts count (12 parts for the whole assembly, as opposed to 37 in the standard mechanism) and, just as significantly, no gears or pivots. That means no need for conventional lubricants, no friction anywhere in the mechanism, and very probably, much better durability and general functionality. The only downside I can see to it, is that it doesn’t seem repairable; if there’s damage or wear, you’d have to swap out the entire mechanism for a new one – the shell would molt the Crab, instead of the other way ’round. It’s damned clever, anyway.

The other innovation is the addition of a new inner terminal curve, on the Spiromax balance spring. Let’s look at the old and new versions, side by side.

The Spiromax Balance Spring, 2006 Edition

 

Spiromax Balance Spring, 2017 Edition

If you look very closely, you’ll see that the innermost coil of the new version has a slight swelling in the coil, similar to the one in the outermost terminal curve. Just as the geometry of the outermost coil duplicates many of the advantages of the Breguet overcoil, so the new geometry of the inner coil duplicates that of a balance spring with a properly formed inner terminal curve. The basic idea behind all this, is to set up the balance spring so that the center of gravity of the spring always coincides with the exact center of gravity of the balance – this is the basic precondition for isochronism. With the addition of the new inner terminal curve, Patek’s been able to get pretty fantastic rate stability out of the watch – as we mentioned up top, the spec is just -1/+2 seconds per day.

By the way, there is an analogous technique with traditional balance springs. Just as the outermost coil geometry of the Spiromax duplicates the effect of a Breguet/Phillips overcoil, so the inner geometry of the 2017 Spiromax duplicates the effect of a mathematically correct inner terminal curve in a steel or alloy balance spring. One such curve is known as a Lossier curve and it was widely used by the American watch company, Waltham, in its high grade railroad watches.

The Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G blue straps Patek Philippe Advanced Research copy watches sit right in the middle of some very strong and interesting debates – the role of silicon in watchmaking is a big one, and the jury is still very much out on whether it has a place in high end watchmaking, although in the entry to medium range, the issue is already settled. It’s well on the way to becoming ubiquitous, as least for many major brands (Omega is the most prominent example).

It’s also a watch that raises the question of how Patek Philippe sees itself evolving in the next decade. Style-wise, this is a polarizing watch; it doesn’t have the easy to like classic configurations of the earlier Advanced Research watches, which are a sort of Trojan horse for silicon. The open dial and the fact that it’s an Aquanaut have raised some hackles amongst the Patek faithful, which I understand (in general, I can’t stand open dials either). With the 5650G, though, I get the logic – this is something of a demonstration model, and it makes sense to make the mechanism visible.

Certainly, there’s quite a lot more fun in seeing it in action, than there would be in watching a silicon escapement do its thing. It’s worth bearing in mind as well that this is a limited edition specifically designed to showcase new tech, and as a limited run concept piece with that tech, the design makes sense even if it’s not to everyone’s taste.

It has to be said as well that these are both extremely interesting innovations and if nothing else, I think that in addition to being pretty cool on their own, they both offer real technical advantages (albeit there are tradeoffs in any engineering solution). Maybe most importantly, though, both add tremendously to the general conversation on modern mechanical horology, and where it’s going to go in years to come.

The Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” is a limited edition of 500 cheap copy watches. Price, $58,970. Movement, caliber 324 S C FUS, 31mm, self-winding, with 45 hour maximum power reserve, running at 28,800 vph in 29 jewels; Patek Philippe Seal, rated to -1/+2 seconds maximum daily rate deviation. Dual time zone, with compliant steel flexible mechanism for time zone setting. Case, 18k white gold; overall length lug to lug, 47.6mm; diameter from 9 to 3 o’clock including crown, 45.24mm; thickness, 11mm. Inter-lug distance, 21mm. Water resistance 12 bar/120 meters. Strap, water resistant composite with 18k gold foldover clasp